Frequently Asked Questions

First you need to obtain a PIC, a Property Identification Code which you can obtain from your local land services. You cannot house live stock without one. You also need this PIC for transportation services when ever the goat/s are moved using a NVD, National Vendor Declaration and Waybill, and joining goat associations. Pygmy goats need good fencing to keep them in and predators out. Small mesh with strong wires, minimum 1.2m high. Goats arent fans of rain, so they will need a good water tight shelter to take cover in. If you are looking to breed, join an Association for membership and goat registrations.

If you have no other goats, NO. Goats are herd animals and need to be with other goats. Not dogs, horses, cats or sheep but other goats, preferrably around the same size to eliminate bullying. Any breeder that sells you one lonesome goat without asking if you have others, in my eyes in unprofessional.

Goats will need regular hoof trims every 6-8 weeks depending on the land you have and wear n tear as they move around. More rocky and hard surfaces may wear the hoofs down quicker than just grass pasture. I use a cheap florist shear from Bunnings.

It is law in Australia that all goats are ear tagged before leaving the place of birth, the breeders stud. There are many differnt types of ear tags available per state. I choose to use the recommended colour each year for easy identification. Do not purchase a goat without an ear tag in and documented. https://www.tagsdirectaust.com.au/products/goat-tags/goat-nlis-tags/

Im a member of the National Pygmy Goat Association of Australia and Miniature Goats Australia. Being a member allows you to register and transfer your goats, get support and information, meet other breeders and be educated with various things directed towards pygmy goats. Each association has a Premium Breed database with goats/genetics from all members. I pride myself on professionalism, inclusions and prompt book keeping so my stud is always up to date.

* Number one thing is to always buy from a registered breeder. You can buy from anyone and transfer the goat into your name to your chosen association * Make sure the goat is registered, and the parents to vertify pygmy %, ask to see papers * Vaccinations up to date * Health and age * Number of kiddings a doe has had, and check for udder faults such as blown teats or deformed udder from overbreeding. * Signs of worms or coccidiosis in young goats * Kid is weaned and healthy before leaving mum and the stud * Ear tag and NVD when transporting * Any faults, extra teats, split scrotums, cleft pallets etc * Lots of information provided by the breeder and support where needed * If bottle fed, the kid has had both vaccinations and established on the bottle with clear feeding instructions * Goats confirmation and genetics. A cheap goat isnt nessessarily a good goat, especially if you are wanting to breed. Use your chosen association's Premium Breed to look at any potential purchases and lines they are from.

Kids need vaccinations at 4 weeks and then a booster at 8 weeks. I also wether any bucklings at 10 weeks. Goats need vaccinations every 6mths with either Glanvac 3 in 1, or Ultravac 5 in 1. The dose of 1ml per goat is administered through a needle subcutaneously on the side of the neck just behind and below the base of the ear or behind one of the front legs. Vaccinating pregnant doe's a month before kidding also protects the unborn kids till their first vaccination.

Wethers are castrated male goats. They are banded usually at 8 weeks and dont become smelly like bucks. Wethers make the best pets in pairs. They dont scream out every 17-21 days when in season like a doe, which is VERY annoying at times. Wethers are good mates for your buck as well.

These are the standard Pygmy Goat coat patterns. As most goats in Australia are mixed with Aussie Mini's, you do get variations including spots.